The City Sleeps Early

So I wanted to come to a tropical country and here I find myself - Quito, Ecuador. It's a bit of an anomaly for what most think of when they think of the tropics. Don't be fooled by its location only 2 degrees south of the equator. At 2800 meters above sea level, it has quite the mediterranean climate. That is, hot, sunny days during its dry season, and cool to cold nights. The thin atmosphere doesn't retain much heat and offers little protection from the sun. In the first few days after I arrived, I received a nice red face, but have since learned my lesson - I carry sunblock with me no matter where I go.

The sun does keep a regular schedule here though. From dawn (at 6am) to dusk (at 6pm), 12 hours of sunlight is the norm year round. With the setting sun comes the change in temperature and the locals and tourists alike don their jackets for warmth. Though, now that I think about it, the locals wear jackets beneath the hot sun as well = protection. And it's actually not too uncomfortable with such low humidity.

The work day in the city ends anywhere from 4pm to 6pm, depending on who you're working for. Municipal jobs are a standard 8am - 4:30pm, while other empresas can start and end earlier or later. And when work is finished for the day, most either head home or for a quick cafecito at a cafe nearby. Though, if you're a tourist, you're likely to find more of you're kind in the Old Town (Centro Histórico) or the trendy New Town (La Mariscal). Sitting in a local coffee shop (The Coffee Tree) in La Mariscal right now, the music coming from the speakers is European, American or Spanish Pop. Flat screen tvs show the latest sports news. Tourists and well-to-do locals sip drinks, coffees and snack on small dishes.

Yet, only several blocks outside of this plaza at the corner of La Reina Victoria and Foch, the contrast is surprising. The buildings become more homely, street vendors line the sidewalks and beggers wander between tourists and business men and women pidiendo limosnas.

As night falls, others come and go within La Mariscal and other parts of the city. Yet, with increasing darkness, the danger increases as well...or so I've been instructed. Wandering about town at late hours (read: from 9pm on) means you're taking on are greater a risk. Actually, I should say that I'm taking a risk - I don't look much like the average Ecuadorian and thus am easily identifiable as someone who might have something worth stealing.

Compared to many other cities in Latin America, Quito does seem to go to sleep early, especially in areas outside of the centro, like Cotocollao. In this particular barrio, the streets empty regularly at 8pm as most are already indoors with their families. But I guess that's where I'd want to be when it becomes dark outside on chilly weeknights - at home with my family.


**************
Picture 1: Part of Quito's Centro Histórico - narrow streets crowded with buses, cars and people. Small shops are fit snuggly next to each other. Small sidewalks make walking in the streets between coming and going traffic necessary.

Picture 2: La Basilica. It sits atop a hill in the Centro Histórico and is visible from just about any point in the old city center. The difference here is that instead of gargoyles, it boasts sculptures of deer, boars, crocodiles and other forest animals.